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A length of supplied EN24 steel is faced to a
dead-true length, centered, and center-drilled both ends.
It is important that the length is exact, as we will be
swapping the shaft end-for-end, with the measurements for
the shoulders taken from each end in turn. After the
earlier, disastrous efforts on my MW54
turbine shaft, I decided to approach this one
differently, more in line with Mike's method. This
entails roughing out the entire shaft, leaving perhaps
.035 mm oversized in all locations; then, the shaft will
be chucked between centers for the final work, to include
turning and polishing the critical journals. Do not
be satisfied with a poor shaft... if any of the surfaces
go too small for the correct fit, scrap it and start
over. Otherwise, you risk damage to some expensive
components, namely the bearings, power turbine wheel, and
possibly the gears.
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Hereafter, for the roughing stage, when I
refer to a diameter such as 12mm, I am implying 12.04mm
or greater. If you doubt the accuracy of your setup,
leave excess material in place for the finishing
operation. Chuck enough of the shaft blank so that you
can turn the 12 mm portion (major OD) in its entirety.
This will then be the portion gripped after we swap the
shaft end-for-end. Use the tailstock for support;
otherwise, the shaft will spring away from the tool
resulting in odd diameters along its length. Then, the
shoulders for the forward bearing and pinion are turned.
Since I am a primitive imperial toolist, my threads on
this shaft will be 12-24 (~.220" / 5.6mm) for the
pinion end, and 1/4 - 28 (6.3mm) for the turbine end. The
blank thread portions of the shaft were turned
appropriately.
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The shaft is released from the chuck, reversed, and
clocked true using, in this case, and adjustable 6-jaw
chuck. Use a 4-jaw chuck if you cannot adjust, or ensure
that the shaft is running within the correct tolerances
given the excess material left. For example, if your
diameter was turned to 12.1 mm. be sure runout is less
than .05 mm, so that when you clean up in the finishing
stage, all critical diameters are truly concentric. |
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Here, the power turbine end is attacked with a
carbide roughing tool. |
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My roughing took 2 stages, the first stage to perhaps
.010" / 0.25mm oversized, the second to the
previously mentioned .035mm. For both the second stage
roughing, and eventual finishing, I ground a HSS tool bit
which worked very well. Quickly reviewing lathe tool
geometry, we remember that top rake, as it increases,
reduces the cutting pressure applied to the tool for a
given cut. Most carbide tools are designed near 0 rake,
and this is best for powerful, rigid, industrial
machines, but for a lighter lathe, a bit of rake makes
for a better cut, and an ability to shave off tiny
amounts of material. The bit seen here has almost 40
degrees of top rake! Quite a bit for a lathe; care must
be taken to ensure the tip is at or slightly below center
height, and only light cuts can be made, or the tool may
dig in. Hone the tip to razor sharpness; don't be
satisifed with the tool as it comes off the grinder. With
this bit, no problems taking off 0.0002" / 0.005mm,
continuously, in one pass. Dull tools or less rake would
simply rub with this sized cut.
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As an experiment, I made a crude toolpost grinder
from a Foredom handpiece and a 4" wheel.
You'll have to read Part II to see if it works! |