Progress shot 27 December 1999

With the exciting and promising early running experiments now under my belt, I realized that it was time to properly set up and equip the engine for sustained running without damage or component failure. This meant that I needed a proper external oil tank with needle valve metering of the oil so as to prevent massive oil expulsion from the front case, and over-lubrication of the central crankcase area. A bit of work with a spare 2.5" dia. brass tube resulted in a nice oil/fuel tank, which I then nickle plated. You can see it mounted here in a high position, above the engine mount itself. This will allow me to have access to the carb and install control pushrods as well for throttle, spark, etc. The needle valve for the oil is inside the tank itself, which is divided into two internal portions, one for oil and the other for fuel.

The fuel will gravity feed in this setup... I am concerned that the fuel will simply drain away entirely, as the carb I am working with has no float chamber. I am working on a miniature float chamber without much success so far. The carb I have selected is an OS carb used for ducted fan engines in R/C models, and is a two-needle carb which allows more precise adjustments to mixture at both idle and full-throttle settings. I did sleeve the barrel down to .30" diameter.

Here are the two oil lines. I started with a length of Viton tubing, .25" dia. and the necessary flare fittings for both the engine and the oil tanks. The SS braid was stolen from a length of washing machine hose, and massaged down to fit the smaller diameter tubing. The braid (and the viton tube) are secured to the brass flare fittings using single-ear clamps which professioal shops use... the effect is excellent, and the tubes look like miniatures right off of a chromed-out street rod. Clamps and special pliers are available from MSC.

I certainly didn't need the SS braid, but I've always liked the effect, and now I finally have an engine with SS hoses!

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