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With the exciting and
promising early running experiments now under my belt, I
realized that it was time to properly set up and equip
the engine for sustained running without damage or
component failure. This meant that I needed a proper
external oil tank with needle valve metering of the oil
so as to prevent massive oil expulsion from the front
case, and over-lubrication of the central crankcase area.
A bit of work with a spare 2.5" dia. brass tube
resulted in a nice oil/fuel tank, which I then nickle
plated. You can see it mounted here in a high position,
above the engine mount itself. This will allow me to have
access to the carb and install control pushrods as well
for throttle, spark, etc. The needle valve for the oil is
inside the tank itself, which is divided into two
internal portions, one for oil and the other for fuel. The fuel will gravity feed in this
setup... I am concerned that the fuel will simply drain
away entirely, as the carb I am working with has no float
chamber. I am working on a miniature float chamber
without much success so far. The carb I have selected is
an OS carb used for ducted fan engines in R/C models, and
is a two-needle carb which allows more precise
adjustments to mixture at both idle and full-throttle
settings. I did sleeve the barrel down to .30"
diameter.
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Here are the two oil
lines. I started with a length of Viton tubing, .25"
dia. and the necessary flare fittings for both the engine
and the oil tanks. The SS braid was stolen from a length
of washing machine hose, and massaged down to fit the
smaller diameter tubing. The braid (and the viton tube)
are secured to the brass flare fittings using single-ear
clamps which professioal shops use... the effect is
excellent, and the tubes look like miniatures right off
of a chromed-out street rod. Clamps and special pliers
are available from MSC. I certainly didn't need the SS
braid, but I've always liked the effect, and now I
finally have an engine with SS hoses!
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